This guide will show you how to adjust four different types of steel bracelets. These include straight pin bracelets, screw pin bracelets, folded link bracelets with U or L pins, and pin and collar bracelets. The steps involved are measurement adjustment and micro-adjustment.

Measurement Adjustment

First, you need to measure how much you need to adjust the bracelet. An easy way is to wear the watch, take the bracelet by the extra links, and count the extra links. Some bracelets feature long-short links, so you can further optimize the length. You want to fine-tune by removing an almost even number of links from the top and bottom half of the bracelet so that the clasp will sit in the middle of your wrist.

Identifying Removable Links

Next, you need to identify the links that can be removed. Not all links can be removed. Usually, only the first few links around the clasp can be removed. This is usually indicated by an arrow at the back of the bracelet, or you can tell by the presence of pins or screws on the side of the bracelet. The method to remove the links depends on how the bracelet is connected.

Straight Pin Bracelet

The first type is a straight-pin bracelet. This is by far the most common type of bracelet. To detach this type of link, you need to push the pin out according to the direction of the arrow. If there are no arrows, compare the two ends of the pin. The narrower end is the end you should push from.

There are quite a few tools that can help you push out the pin. The first one is a set of tools, including a hammer, a push pin, and a working block. The different slots on the working block are of different widths to accommodate different bracelets. Put the bracelet into the appropriate slot in the block, put the push pin directly onto the straight pin, and use the hammer to lightly tap it out. Once the pin is out on the other side, pull the rest out by hand or, if it is tight, with the help of a pair of pliers.

However, using a hammer and a push pin could run the risk of slipping and damaging the bracelet in the process. Therefore, we recommend using this type of tool instead. You can turn this platform to adjust its height so that the pins on the bracelet align with the pin pusher. Turn the handle to push the pin out in the direction of the arrow. Then pull the pin out once it’s out from the other side. If aligned correctly, this tool allows you to remove the pin without the risk of scratching the bracelet.

Once the necessary pins are removed, the link can be removed. To reattach the bracelet, insert the pin in the opposite direction, with the narrower end going in first. When the pin is in as far as the hand can push it, you can either hammer it in, in which case you can opt to put some protective film on the bracelet or use the tool to push the rest in.

Screw Pin Bracelet

The second type of bracelet attachment is a screw pin attachment. Adjustment for this type of bracelet is pretty straightforward. The links can be simply removed by removing the screw. If you want to avoid scratches, put a protective plastic film on it before you start. For even more stability, put the bracelet on a working block. To reattach the links, simply screw the pin back in.

L or U Shaped Pin Bracelet

The third type of bracelet features an L or U-shaped pin. This is commonly seen on folded link bracelets. You can identify this type by looking at the back. There is a surface layer of the bracelet, and then there is the pin with a notch underneath it. To detach it, insert a pin into the notch and then push in the direction of the arrow. That should pop out the pin. To reattach the link, simply reinsert the pin and push until it is snugly in place.

Pin and Collar Bracelet

The fourth type is a pin and collar bracelet. This is mostly similar to the straight pin variant, except the pin has a collar or pipe, as Seiko calls it, at the end of the pin. Adjustment is largely the same, except for when the pin is pushed out, look out for the collar. It could be left on the pusher, or it could drop out from the link. The collar, as you can see, is pretty small, and if you’re not ready for it, it could be lost easily. That’s a common mistake for a first-timer.

To reattach the links, put the collar at the back end of the arrow and insert the pin from the opposite side. You should see the collar come out as the pin goes in. So put something to backstop the collar, like the end of a tweezer, as you push the pin in. This will force the pin into the collar and expand the collar in the process, thus achieving a friction fit with the link. Check that the pin is fully in the link on both sides and that the link is securely attached.

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Micro-Adjustment

The final touch of the bracelet adjustment is the micro-adjustment. When you try out the bracelet post-adjustment, it might feel a tad bit too tight or loose. Or, after a while, your wrist changes size, but you don’t want to go through the entire adjustment process. For this reason, a lot of steel bracelets have a micro-adjustment mechanism at the clasp. These are usually secured by spring bars. So simply use a pin pusher to remove the spring bar. Then you can adjust the size accordingly. Now, the bracelet should be nice and fit.

This has been a DIY watch guide on bracelet adjustment. If you have found this useful, please consider liking and subscribing so you can stay up-to-date with our latest content. See you on the next one!